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Thursday, February 6, 2014

A Fashion Week Sneak Peek

Many designers approach the creation of a new collection by sketching out their ideas on paper. The sketches that appear here will soon walk in real life on the catwalks of New York Fashion Week, which begins Thursday.
More art than design, with many details left to be filled in later, these sketches nonetheless chronicle the near future of fashion, before it has been realized in fabrics and buttons.
Many designers approach the creation of a new collection by sketching out their ideas on paper. Take a behind-the-scenes look at some of the sketches that will soon walk in real life on the catwalks of New York Fashion Week. Tracy Reese
From what Tracy Reese calls "commanding cloths" to Bibhu Mohapatra's Tibetan intrigue, the best, or most popular, of these designs will be made in coming months and will reach store shelves by roughly August (making a misnomer of the so-called fall collections).
The geography of the runways themselves are changing this season. The relentless march of shows toward New York's trendy arts neighborhoods from Lincoln Center continues as Ms. Reese, Michael Kors, Zach Posen, Vera Wang and Diane Von Furstenberg find new venues.
Alexander Wang, perhaps taking a cue from Kenzo's far-flung shows in Parisian suburbs, is flexing his muscles by asking guests to follow him to the Brooklyn Navy Yard for his must-see show. That's power. (The designer arranged for a discount on Uber car services for the trip.)
In a nod to the commercial possibilities of busy New York, Lie Sang Bong is moving his show to New York after many years in Paris.
Ms. Von Furstenberg is celebrating the 40th anniversary of the wrap dress, one design that slinkily and comfortably changed women's lives.
After the New York shows, the fashion world moves to Europe—first London, then Milan and Paris. Influential designer Nicolas Ghesquière returns after a year or so hiatus, taking the creative helm at Louis Vuitton, where he has replaced Marc Jacobs.
Given Mr. Ghesquiere's ability to lead other designers to new looks, his collection may be a crystal ball to what's to come in future seasons. Perhaps he will design the new wrap dress.

The designer says her latest collection was inspired by Parisian street artist Philippe Baudelocque. "The idea of fragile work in an urban environment plays on the rare complexity of unexpected pairings of colors, techniques and fabrics," she said.
Bibhu Mohapatra
The designer was "inspired by what has been called the last Shangri-La of the world—the people, culture and history of Tibet." The color palette of lichen, mustard, gold and scarlet "is strongly informed by the native crafts and vast colorful and rugged terrains."
Nanette Lepore
After she saw the recent Interwoven Globe textile exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, she "was inspired to meld the weavings, embellishments and embroideries of local craftsmen everywhere into something new, something modern." The designer used neutrals with a color range "from boysenberry to pastel pinks to Merlot with just a hint of jade."
Tracy Reese
The designer, whose fashions have been worn by Michelle Obama, said her collection "takes an intimate look at self-expression, intermixing utility pieces with unique elements that provide pops of personality and spirit."
BCBG Max Azria
For the brand's 25th anniversary, "we decided to look to our roots and showcase looks that are reminiscent of some of our favorite looks throughout the years," said Lubov Azria, chief creative officer, shown above with her husband, Max Azria, chairman and CEO. "We're often inspired by nature."
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